How to Clean Iron Metal Detecting Finds – A Beginners Guide

Quick Summary

Learn how to clean and preserve iron relics using methods like electrolysis, mechanical tools, and distilled water soaking. This guide will also help you avoid common mistakes and keep your relics rust-free for years to come.

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Iron Finds: A Hidden History Worth Preserving

Iron finds might not make your heart race like gold or silver, but every now and then, you’ll come across something that piques your interest. Maybe it’s an old tool, a rusted piece of equipment, or something you’re just not quite sure about. Before diving into the cleaning process, it’s always worth considering the potential significance of your find. If you suspect it could have historical importance, it’s a good idea to consult an expert before attempting any cleaning. Sometimes, the rust tells more of a story than the object itself! To be a true responsible detectorist, you should never take risks.

That said, there are plenty of iron relics that are worth cleaning up for personal display or preservation. We’ve covered cleaning coins previously, but iron requires a different approach—rusty, fragile, and prone to falling apart if handled too aggressively. In this guide, we’ll walk through how to clean iron artifacts properly, from the basic tools you’ll need to the best methods, and most importantly, what not to do.

Preparing Your Iron Metal Detecting Finds for Cleaning

So, you’ve decided that rusty piece of iron you dug up deserves a little TLC. Before you grab the nearest tool and start chipping away, there are a few things you’ll want to do to prepare your find for cleaning. Rushing in blindly could damage the artifact or cause more harm than good. Let’s go over the essentials before you get started.

Inspect the Artifact

First things first, take a good look at the object. Is it fragile? Does it have layers of corrosion, or is the rust superficial? Give it a gentle tap—if it feels like it might fall apart, you’ll need to proceed with extra caution. Some iron artifacts can be structurally weak after centuries of rust buildup, and the last thing you want is to accidentally break a piece of history in half.

If you’re dealing with a particularly delicate or unique item, it might be wise to seek expert advice before doing anything. Better safe than sorry!

Gather Your Tools

The right tools can make all the difference when it comes to cleaning iron relics. Here’s a quick checklist of what you’ll need for most cleaning jobs:

• Soft brushes (toothbrushes work a charm)
• Rubber gloves (to protect your hands and the artifact)
• Distilled water (tap water can sometimes do more harm than good)
• Cotton cloths or pads (for gentle wiping)
• Dental picks or bamboo skewers (to get into those tricky nooks and crannies)

If you’re planning on trying more advanced cleaning methods (like electrolysis, which we’ll cover later), you’ll need a few extra bits of kit. But for now, we’re keeping things simple.

Test a Small Area

This might be the most important step before you go all in. Always, always test a small, inconspicuous area of the artifact first. Whether you’re using water, a brush, or a tool, it’s best to see how the iron responds before you commit to cleaning the entire thing. Iron can react unpredictably depending on how corroded it is, so a little caution here can save you a lot of regret later.

Tried-and-Tested Techniques for Cleaning Iron Relics

Electrolysis: The Safest Bet for Heavily Corroded Iron

If your iron artifact looks like it’s more rust than relic, electrolysis might be the solution you need. This method uses an electrical current to gently remove rust without damaging the iron underneath. It’s a bit more advanced than simply scrubbing with a brush, but the results can be well worth the effort—especially for heavily corroded items.

How Electrolysis Works

In simple terms, electrolysis uses electricity to reverse the rusting process. The rust (iron oxide) is slowly converted back to iron, while the worst of the corrosion is loosened and can be easily brushed off. It’s a non-invasive method, meaning it won’t grind away at your artifact like some mechanical tools might. Plus, it leaves the object much closer to its original form.

What You’ll Need

• A power source (a small battery charger works well)
• Washing soda (also known as sodium carbonate, available in most supermarkets or online)
• A non-conductive container (plastic tubs are great for this)
• A sacrificial piece of metal (this can be any piece of steel or iron that you’re willing to lose in the process)
• Distilled water

Step-by-Step Guide to Electrolysis

1. Set up your container: Fill your plastic tub with distilled water and add a few tablespoons of washing soda. Stir until dissolved—this will help the electricity flow through the water.
2. Connect the sacrificial metal: Place your piece of sacrificial metal into the water and connect it to the positive terminal of your power source. This metal will attract all the rust and debris during the process.
3. Attach your artifact: Clip your iron relic to the negative terminal of the power source and submerge it in the solution, but make sure it doesn’t touch the sacrificial metal. Keep the two pieces separate.
4. Turn on the power: With everything in place, turn on your battery charger or power source. You should start to see bubbles forming—this means the electrolysis process has begun. Depending on the size of your relic and the amount of rust, you might need to leave it in for a few hours or even days.
5. Check progress regularly: Every few hours, take a look at the artifact and see how the rust is coming off. Once you’re satisfied with the result, turn off the power, remove the relic, and give it a gentle scrub with a soft brush.
6. Rinse and dry: After the process is complete, rinse the artifact with distilled water and dry it thoroughly. Moisture is the enemy of iron, so make sure it’s bone dry before storing it.

For a more in-depth guide, you can visit this website.

Safety Tips

• Always work in a well-ventilated area.
• Wear safety goggles and gloves, as you’re dealing with electricity and potentially harmful chemicals.
• Keep the power source away from water—don’t mix electricity and liquids without proper precautions!

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This method can be a bit of a project, but it’s one of the most effective ways to tackle stubborn rust while preserving the integrity of the iron underneath. Plus, watching the transformation is pretty satisfying!

Using Tools for Cleaning: The Manual Method

Not every iron relic needs a high-tech solution like electrolysis. Sometimes, a bit of elbow grease and the right tools are all you need to bring a find back to life. Mechanical cleaning is great for removing surface rust on less corroded items, but it requires a careful hand. The goal here is to remove the rust without damaging the artifact beneath, and it’s surprisingly easy to get carried away and scrape off more than intended!

Recommended Tools

• Wire brushes: These come in different sizes and are perfect for removing loose rust.
• Dental picks or bamboo skewers: Ideal for detailed work and getting into tight crevices.
• Gentle sandpaper or steel wool: Use the finest grit possible for light scrubbing.
• Soft toothbrushes: Good for a final once-over after the heavier tools have done their job.

Step-by-Step Guide to Mechanical Cleaning

1. Start Gently: Begin with the softest tool, like a toothbrush or soft wire brush, to see how much rust comes off with minimal pressure. If the rust is superficial, you may not need to use harsher tools at all.
2. Move to a Wire Brush: If the rust is more stubborn, switch to a small wire brush. Use light, even strokes to avoid damaging the metal underneath. Focus on rusted areas only and leave untouched areas alone.
3. Detail Work: For intricate or hard-to-reach spots, use a dental pick or bamboo skewer. These let you carefully scrape rust out of grooves or crevices without affecting the rest of the artifact.
4. Use Sandpaper (Sparingly): If you’ve got a particularly stubborn patch, fine-grit sandpaper or steel wool can help. Be cautious with this step—you don’t want to remove too much material or scratch the artifact itself. Light, circular motions usually work best.
5. Final Brush: Once you’re satisfied with the rust removal, give the entire piece a final brush with a soft toothbrush to clear away any remaining debris.

Pros and Cons of Mechanical Cleaning

• Pros: This method is accessible, requires minimal setup, and works well for lighter corrosion.
• Cons: It’s easy to accidentally over-clean and remove details or damage the relic. Patience is key here!

When to Use This Method

Mechanical cleaning is best for items with surface rust or pieces where you want to maintain control over the cleaning process. However, if the rust is too deep or the item feels fragile, it might be best to switch to a gentler approach like soaking or electrolysis.

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Remember: Don’t be tempted to go at your relic like it’s a DIY project gone wrong! Sometimes, less is more when it comes to cleaning iron artifacts. A few careful passes with the right tool will leave you with a well-preserved piece of history.

The Slow and Steady Approach: Soaking in Distilled Water

If you’re dealing with an iron relic that’s not too heavily corroded, or you’re a bit hesitant to jump into electrolysis or scraping with tools, soaking in distilled water is a gentle, low-tech option. This method works well for lightly rusted items or those where you want to avoid using anything abrasive. It’s not a quick fix, but patience is the name of the game here, and it can yield great results with minimal risk to the artifact.

Why Distilled Water?

You might be wondering why we’re not using tap water. Well, tap water can contain minerals and chemicals that might react with the iron and cause further damage. Distilled water, on the other hand, is free from impurities and won’t contribute to more corrosion. It’s the safest option when dealing with fragile or unknown finds.

How Soaking in Distilled Water Works

Soaking your iron artifact in distilled water helps loosen rust and dirt over time, without any harsh chemicals or abrasion. It’s a very slow process, but it’s one of the safest ways to clean your finds. The water dissolves the rust particles gradually, and with regular soaking and brushing, your relic will start to look a lot cleaner.

Step-by-Step Guide to Soaking in Distilled Water

1. Submerge the Artifact: Place your iron find in a container filled with distilled water. Make sure the entire artifact is fully submerged. If the object is too large, soak it in sections.
2. Wait and Change the Water Regularly: Let the artifact soak for at least 24 hours. After this, change the water, as it will begin to discolour with the rust particles that have come off. You’ll want to repeat this process daily until the water stays mostly clear.
3. Gently Brush the Rust Off: After each soak, take the artifact out and give it a light scrub with a soft brush (like a toothbrush) to remove any loosened rust. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, especially if the relic is fragile.
4. Repeat the Process: This is a long-term cleaning method, so you may need to soak and brush the artifact for several days or even weeks, depending on the level of corrosion.
5. Final Rinse and Dry: Once you’re happy with the results, rinse the artifact in fresh distilled water to remove any last bits of rust or debris. Dry it thoroughly, because any remaining moisture can lead to more rust down the line.

Patience Is Key

This method isn’t for the impatient—it’s the tortoise in the race to clean your iron relics. But it’s also one of the safest options if you’re concerned about damaging the artifact. The slow pace allows you to control the cleaning process and prevent over-cleaning.

When to Use This Method

Soaking in distilled water is ideal for:

• Fragile relics that might crumble under more aggressive cleaning methods.
• Finds that are lightly rusted and just need a gentle clean.
• Items you want to handle with care, especially if you’re unsure of their historical significance.

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Note: While this method works well for many relics, if the rust is too thick or the object is heavily corroded, you might want to combine it with electrolysis for more stubborn spots. However, distilled water soaking on its own is a great, safe starting point.

Waxing Your Relic: Preserving the Cleaned Artifact

Now that you’ve painstakingly cleaned your iron find, you’ll want to protect it from future corrosion. This is where waxing and sealing come into play. Applying a wax coating isn’t just about making the object shiny—it helps preserve the iron and prevents it from rusting again by creating a barrier between the metal and the air. It’s a simple yet effective way to ensure your hard work doesn’t go to waste.

Why Wax?

Iron, as you know by now, loves to rust. Even after a thorough cleaning, exposure to moisture or air can start the rusting process all over again. Waxing provides a protective layer that seals the surface and keeps oxygen and moisture at bay. For historical artifacts, museums often use microcrystalline wax for long-term preservation. Luckily, you can use the same approach at home with the right products.

What You’ll Need

• Microcrystalline wax (available online or in specialist stores)
• A soft cloth or brush for application
• Heat source (optional, for softening the wax if necessary)

Step-by-Step Guide to Waxing and Sealing Your Iron Relic

1. Warm the Wax (Optional): If your wax is solid and a bit difficult to apply, you can warm it gently using a hairdryer or place it in a warm area for a few minutes. This makes it more pliable and easier to spread.
2. Apply the Wax: Using a soft cloth or a small brush, apply a thin layer of microcrystalline wax to the surface of the relic. Make sure to cover every part of the iron, including any nooks and crannies. Avoid using too much wax, as you want an even, thin coat.
3. Buff It In: After applying the wax, gently buff the surface with a clean cloth to smooth out the layer and give the relic a nice finish. You’re not aiming for a high-gloss shine—just a protective coat.
4. Let It Sit: Allow the wax to cure for a few hours, or as recommended by the product’s instructions. This lets the wax harden and form a strong barrier against the elements.
5. Reapply If Needed: Over time, the wax might wear off, especially if the relic is handled often. Keep an eye on it and reapply as needed to maintain the protective coating.

Alternative: Oil Sealing

If you don’t have wax on hand, a thin coat of oil can also offer some protection. Use a non-acidic oil, like mineral oil or a light machine oil. Simply wipe the artifact with a thin layer and buff off any excess. However, wax generally provides a more durable and long-lasting barrier.

When to Use Waxing

Waxing is a great method for:

• Long-term preservation: Ideal for artifacts you plan to display or store.
• Preventing future rust: Especially useful in damp environments where iron is at risk of re-oxidizing.

Final Thought: Wax Is Your Friend

A little wax goes a long way in preserving your iron relics. While it might not seem like an essential step, trust me—this final touch could be the difference between a pristine piece of history and a rusty mess in a few years. Plus, it’s an easy and satisfying process, so why not protect your treasure (er, iron find)?

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Cleaning Iron Detecting Finds

Cleaning iron artifacts isn’t just about what you should do—it’s also about what you absolutely shouldn’t. There are some cleaning methods that, while tempting, can cause more harm than good. Whether it’s using harsh chemicals or scrubbing too hard, the wrong approach could damage your relic beyond repair. Let’s go over the biggest “no-no’s” when it comes to cleaning iron finds.

1. Don’t Use Vinegar or Acidic Solutions

While vinegar might seem like a go-to for cleaning many household items, it’s a terrible idea for iron relics. Vinegar and other acidic solutions can corrode the metal even further and strip away important historical details. Yes, the rust might come off, but you’re likely to be left with a pitted and damaged artifact. Acid eats away at the surface of iron, which is definitely not what you want.

2. Avoid Harsh Chemicals

Products like bleach or industrial rust removers can seem like quick fixes, but they often do more harm than good. These chemicals are usually too strong and can react unpredictably with the iron, causing irreversible damage. Stick to the tried-and-true methods like distilled water, electrolysis, or mechanical cleaning to avoid ruining your find.

3. Don’t Over-Clean Your Relic

It’s easy to get carried away, especially when you see all that rust coming off. But remember, sometimes a little bit of rust or corrosion adds character and tells a story. Over-cleaning can remove important details or patina that adds historical value. Think of it like this: you’re preserving history, not polishing your grandma’s silverware. Take it slow, and know when to stop!

4. Avoid Using Power Tools

Unless you’re a professional restorer, power tools should be off-limits for cleaning iron artifacts. Sure, they’ll get the job done fast, but the risk of over-scraping, scratching, or damaging the relic is way too high. Stick to hand tools like brushes, picks, or fine sandpaper for more control and precision.

5. Don’t Soak in Salt Water

Some people mistakenly believe that soaking iron relics in saltwater can help clean them. Big mistake! Salt accelerates the rusting process, which is the exact opposite of what you want to happen. Even after rinsing, salt particles can linger and continue to corrode the iron over time. Always stick to distilled water when soaking any metal finds, iron or otherwise.

6. Don’t Rush the Process

Iron relics take time to clean—especially if they’ve been buried for decades or centuries. Rushing the process by using too much force, cleaning too quickly, or jumping into advanced methods without proper setup can lead to mistakes. Remember, patience is key to preserving your find.

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Summary: Be Gentle and Smart About It

The key takeaway here? Be gentle and careful. It’s all about preserving the integrity of the artifact while making sure it’s clean enough to appreciate or study. When in doubt, stick to the safer, slower methods. A rushed job can lead to permanent damage that no amount of TLC can undo.

Caring for Your Iron Relics After Cleaning

You’ve put in the effort, removed the rust, and your iron relic is looking pretty impressive. But the job isn’t quite over yet. Iron, as you’ve likely gathered by now, has a way of trying to rust all over again if you’re not careful. To keep your cleaned artifact in good condition, you’ll need to follow some basic post-cleaning care steps. These will help protect your find from future damage and ensure it stays rust-free for the long haul.

1. Store in a Dry Place

Iron and moisture don’t mix. Once your relic is clean, it’s crucial to store it in a dry environment where humidity won’t undo all your hard work. Avoid damp basements or humid areas, and if you’re displaying your relic, make sure it’s not near windows or exposed to the elements. Silica gel packets can be your best friend here—they help absorb moisture and keep your relic in a dry state.

2. Monitor for Rust

Even with all the precautions, iron can still sneakily start rusting again if conditions aren’t perfect. Check your relic periodically for any signs of new rust. If you notice any spots starting to form, don’t panic! You can often catch rust early and treat it before it becomes a major problem. A gentle scrub with a soft brush or reapplying wax should do the trick.

3. Reapply Wax If Needed

The wax you applied earlier won’t last forever, especially if the relic is handled or exposed to changing conditions. Over time, the protective coating can wear thin. It’s a good idea to reapply the wax periodically, especially if you’re displaying the artifact or if it’s stored in a place where it’s likely to gather dust.

4. Avoid Handling Too Much

As tempting as it is to pick up your freshly cleaned relic and show it off, handling iron too often can actually contribute to rusting. The oils and moisture from your hands can transfer to the metal, even if you’ve waxed it. If you must handle your relic, wear gloves to avoid leaving behind anything that could cause future corrosion.

5. Keep It Away from Other Metals

When storing your iron artifact, make sure it’s not in contact with other types of metal. Different metals can react with each other over time, leading to accelerated corrosion or discoloration. Keep your relics spaced out and ideally on soft, non-reactive surfaces like cloth or wood.

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Long-Term Preservation: Keeping Your Relic Safe

Cleaning your iron artifact was just the beginning of its preservation journey. To make sure it lasts for years to come, proper storage, minimal handling, and regular maintenance are key. If you’ve taken the time to clean it, a little extra care will go a long way in keeping your relic looking great and rust-free.

In the end, preserving iron relics isn’t just about what you do to clean them, but how you care for them afterward. With the right approach, you can ensure your iron artifact remains a part of your collection (and history) for a long time to come.

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Conclusion

There you have it! Cleaning iron artifacts might require a little patience and care, but the results are well worth the effort. Whether you’ve gone for the hands-on approach with mechanical tools, soaked it in distilled water, or tried your hand at electrolysis, the most important part is preserving that piece of history. And remember—once it’s cleaned, take care of it to avoid having to do it all over again!